Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Thinking About Spring
What are you thinking of planting next year?
Saturday, October 17, 2009
The Little Things in Our Gardens
It is easy to miss the little creatures that fill our gardens. I recently purchased a macro lens which gets me in closer to smaller things. I was out today in the garden and happened upon this spider resting in the sun on one of my coneflowers, and the ladybug below was sipping on my sedums.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
My Favorite Way to Eat Fresh Tomatoes
Monday, September 21, 2009
How to Ripen Green Tomatoes
So I did some research on line and many people talked about placing them in a south facing window. Well, these were pretty green and I felt the sun would do more harm than good. So I decided to try one suggestion and sit them next to ripened bananas.
There were four really green tomatoes when I started this experiment, so, I sat them next to my old bananas (to make banana bread with later), and waited. Well, a few days ago, I took this photo. One of the large tomatoes is amazingly turning to an orange color, with another one not too far behind it.
Four days later, the large orange one is now red, and the other large green one is now orange. The smaller two are still green but showing signs of fading. Wow, ripe bananas really work...you'll just have to put up with the gnats though!
Monday, September 14, 2009
Wild Cardinal Flower
Thursday, September 3, 2009
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 4
Of course I lost some stems doing all of this, as they break easily. I have also had to thin out some of the extra stems to let more light and air circulation into the center of the plants. Next year when I grow these, I will plant them in a long row so they are easier to get to, and get more sun.
Here is the first tomato of the year, collected a few days ago. I sat it in my kitchen to ripen up some more.
Follow my tomotoes' journey:
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 3.
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 2.
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 1.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Black Eyed Susans Stand Out in my Garden
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Tall Phlox
I usually only see Phlox sold in pinks and purples, so when I saw this tall Phlox for sale at Bachman's, I snatched it up. It is called "Orange Perfection" and while not really orange, but more of a coral color, it is an amazing. Grows up to 4 feet tall.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Growing Joe Pye Weed
In the perennial garden on the other side of my house, I decided to try out the dwarf variety, "Little Joe", as they only get about 4 feet high, but mine are a little taller than that. He gets a little more shade here, but he seems to be doing just fine.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
What a Plant Sale Looks Like

Sunday, August 9, 2009
One of my Coneflowers has Stem Rot
This site has some great photos of diseases that effect Coneflowers
Question: Why Are My Coneflowers Dying?July 27, 2009
My two-year-old coneflowers (Echinacea) are wilting and dying. They make many flowers, then they wilt and the leaves turn brown. The whole plant seems to die, stem by stem. What can I do? Nothing else in my perennial bed seems harmed.
Answer: Coneflowers are generally easy to grow and free of pests, but there are some diseases that attack them when conditions are right. The symptoms you describe suggest sclerotinia stem and root rot, also sometimes called crown rot. It is caused by the fungus Sclerotinia sclerotiorum.
This disease can present itself while the plants are still small or during bloom. It can originate in the soil and form black areas on the roots and plant crown after the plant dies. It can also reach the plant through the air, in which case it causes stem blotches, wilting and dieback. Flower heads may droop. Digging up one of the plants to examine the roots should help you diagnose the problem. A small, weak or broken root system also points to a fungal problem.
This disease is most likely to occur in damp conditions. If your area has received more rain than usual this year or it has been very humid, this fungal disease is most likely the problem. Also, echinacea are drought-tolerant plants that don’t require or prefer a lot of watering. If you are watering consistently to meet the needs of the other, undamaged plants in the bed, you might want to consider growing your coneflowers elsewhere.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Sick Plant? Ask a Master Gardener
At the Plant Diagnostic Clinic you may...
- Bring a sample of a plant or weed for identification
- Bring a sample of a damaged plant for diagnosis of common insects or disease problems
- Receive recommendations on how to culturally control pests and weeds
- Discuss problems on lawns, trees, flowers, fruits, vegetables, or pests with the University of Minnesota Extension Dakota County Master Gardeners
All clinics are held from 6:00 - 8:00 p.m.
Clinic dates and locations
Tuesday, August 4 - UMore Park, 1605 West 160th Street, Rosemount
Tuesday, August 11 - UMore Park,1605 West 160th Street, Rosemount
Tuesday, August 18 - UMore Park, 1605 West 160th Street, Rosemount
Thursday, August 20* - Umore Park (Open House), 1605 West 160th Street, Rosemount
*Please bring your sample to the clinic at least 30 minutes before closing time*
Fleshy plant parts - (bulbs, fruits and roots) - Wrap specimens in clean, absorbent materials (like paper towels) to absorb all leaks.
Flowers and vegetables - Include the entire plant, the root system, and the surrounding soil (often what appears to be a leaf problem is really a root-related problem). Enclose the roots in a plastic bag and keep the soil from touching the leaves. Include enough of the plant to show all stages of the disease or problem. When possible, bring several whole plants. Bring notes on the pattern of the symptoms over your whole garden.
Foliar disease - Include enough plant material to show all stages of the disease, from healthy to very sick. Submit only freshly collected materials. Note the overall disease pattern on the plant. Are all the leaves affected, or just the lower branches?
Turf samples - Turf samples are discouraged, as it is difficult to diagnose turf problems from samples. If you wish to bring one, though, please bring a turf section measuring 6" x 6" with the roots, from each of these areas: the sick turf, the turf on the edge of the sick area, and the healthy turf .
Woody trees and shrubs - Collect an infected branch sample, a moderately infected branch, and a healthy branch. Please do not bring completely dead branches
Insect samples - If possible, bring several insect samples. Include a plant sample showing insect damage. Preserve soft-bodied insects in rubbing alcohol.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Endless Summer Hydrangea
Some of the things you must do to protect this variety of hydrangea is to keep watering the shrub up until the first frost and to cover it with mulch to protect it from the winter weather. I also planted them in an area that is partially protected from winter winds, and get part sun during the day. So far, they are doing quite well!
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
My Second Perennial Garden Project
Sunday, July 12, 2009
My Coneflower Garden
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Hot to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 3
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 2.
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 1.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
One of my Perennial Gardens
But anyway, this is newest project. I have Joe Pye Weed in the very back, some phlox, peonies, butterfly weed, butterfly bush, etc. I made it into an "L" shape so it can become a garden fence for my yard.
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Coral Bells Finally in my Garden
Monday, June 22, 2009
Blanket Flower
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Alliums
Thursday, June 4, 2009
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 2
Yes, this is my first year trying to grow tomato plants from seed, and in fact, the only year I have tried. Now that the seeds have sprouted and the plants have been growing the last few months, I thought I would share their progress.
As you can read, at the link below, in my previous post, I explained the process I used to spout some tomato seeds. After they had grown a little, and developed the first set of small leaves, I decided it was time to transfer them to larger pots. So on April 27th, I chose the six best seedlings and transferred them to a six pack left over from the pansies I purchased a few days before.
Gently pull the seedlings from the planting medium and place the roots all the way to the bottom. I then filled each cell with some of the remaining seedling dirt I had left over.

I don't have the funds for sun lamps, so I placed the plants in my south facing kitchen window to get the most amount of light possible. It is still to cold outside in April and early May too put them outside and get some real sun. At this point, I watered them only when they appeared dry, and did not fertilize them.
Around May 27th, roughly four weeks later, the tomato plants were going on the third and fourth set of leaves. I decided it was time to transfer them to the next stage of individual pots. The original seedling/sprout leaves have at this point fallen off, but you can still see where they were.
Using the pots that some begonias came in, I carefully loosened each plant, placed the root system at the bottom of the new pot, and covered with seedling dirt all the way to the top. For the most part, this meant that everything below the sprout leaf nodes is now under dirt.

How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed, Part 1.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Mayapple
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Hyacinths in my Yard
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
War Declared on Rabbits

Last week I planted three different colors of Columbine around my garden. Though their bloom time is short, they ad variety to the garden. So you can imagine my anger when I walked out this morning to find my pretty yellow Columbine half eaten....not to mention a section of my tulips and some other perennials trying to come up.
That's the Final Straw!
Later in the morning, I went to Home Depot, and purchased some garden bed fencing, applicably called "bunny fence", and I have spent the better part of the day surrounding my perennial bed with this wire. My fingers ache and I have cuts on my arms from the wire, but bunnies be damned, I will not let them enjoy another bite!
Sunday, May 10, 2009
White Crab Apple
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Got to Kill the Wabbit...

(the photo is kind of hard to tell, but it is my rabbit damage from a month ago, when the tulips were first coming up)
Friday, May 1, 2009
Monday, April 27, 2009
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Master Gardener Plant Sale Coming Soon
Saturday, May 9th
9am- Noon
UMore Park
1605 W. 160th St.
Rosemount, MN
The website states "Browse hundreds of plants that can be placed in native gardens, English cottage gardens, woodland gardens, rain gardens and more", and if you would like to see a list of potential plants, they have one for you too.
Friday, April 24, 2009
My Garden Book

I started by dividing the book into sections: Front Beds, Side Beds, and Rear Beds. Then I made a drawing of the bed, using symbols for plants. If the plants were of the same family, they got the same symbol. For example, the triangles in the photo are all Coneflowers, but each is a different variety. So the variety received a number, and I noted the numbers at the bottom of the page. I left a few pages after the map, so I could right down growth notes over the next coming years.
If something doesn't survive, I write it down on one of the last pages in the notebook so I have a list of plants that may not do too well in my soil. Oh, and one last thing, I always keep the flower info stakes that come with the plant, so I have quick access to the plants growth needs, not to mention remembering where I bought the plant from. (if too many plants die or don't make it through the winter, and they come from one garden center, then I know to not go back to that business).
The book has been wonderful to have this spring. Of course, I discovered that I forgot to note down where I planted some of my daffodils, so there have been about five surprise locations this spring. I have quickly written down these locations now!
Friday, April 17, 2009
The First Flower Planting - Pansies

Bachmans of Apple Valley started selling their Pansies this week so I picked up a few, as they were Buy-One-Get-One-Free. How can I resist buying some blue and purple pansies for my garden? Since Spring is later this year, none of my bulbs are blooming yet, and I just need to see some color in my garden. I picked up some yellow pansies as well and planted them near the tulips.
Behind the pansies, in this photo, are some Allium bulbs I planted last fall. We'll see how they do later.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Spring Blooming Bulbs
Spring is finally here! After spending an entire weekend planting hundreds of various bulbs, they are finally coming up. About three weeks ago, the last week of March, my tulips started to peak through the ground. The daffodils, however, were worrying me and I was afraid they didn't make it. But a little over a week ago, the first ones started to finally show themselves.
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From The Minnesota Garden |
Below are some of my daffodils, with an Endless Summer Hydrangea bush just starting to sprout some new growth behind them.
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From The Minnesota Garden |
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
How to Grow Tomato Plants from Seed

Picking out the seeds wasn't too hard. I know I like sweet, juicy tomatoes, and when I saw the "Brandywine Red", it looked like this variety would work.
Having never done this before, I looked online for ideas, but I couldn't find something simple. I knew I didn't want to put the money into buying the trays so I was at a loss of what to do. Randomly, I picked up an old Garden Gate mag from last year and came across a reader's suggestion on how she grew her tomato plants from seed.
Exhibit A : The Rotisserie Chicken Container

- Clean both parts with hot water and soap.
- Punch a few holes in the bottom of the tray for drainage. I filled the tray with a teaspoon of water and watched where the water pooled, then cut small holes in these locations. Then place a chard of pottery over the holes so the dirt doesn't flood out.
- Next, fill the bottom tray with seed starting mix about 3/4 full. Since I used "Brandywine Red", the package says to plant at a depth of 1/8", so what I did was just place the seeds on the top of the soil, then cover over with about 1/8" of dirt.
- With a spray bottle, mist the top of the soil with water until it is a damp. Cover with lid.
(the tiny white specks are the tomato seeds)
The tomato seed package says you will start to see sprouts within 7-15 days. I planted mine on March 11th, and five days later, I saw the first tiny shoots appearing. Now, two days later, each seed I planted is about one inch tall.
I took the lid off for the above photo, and then placed it back on, sitting it in it's afternoon sunny location. When the seedlings show a second set of leaves, it will be time to move them to larger pots. Stay tuned for additional updates on my tomato project 2009, growing tomato plants from seeds.